There are things in the renovation that I would do exactly the same way again. And then there is the timber. Honestly, I regret not salvaging more of it.
At the time, I was worried about the little creatures. Wood-boring insects, the ones that attack timber. I was afraid of keeping them, afraid of bringing the problem into a new fit-out… That concern made me let go of timber I now wish I had examined more closely.
Today, I would not tell you to salvage everything without looking. But I would also tell you not to reject everything out of fear. You need to inspect, sort, understand the condition of the timber and decide what it can be used for.
My regret is not that I failed to keep everything. It is that I did not look more closely before deciding.
Salvaging timber in practice
My video about salvaging timber and the possibilities it opens up.
Next door, enough timber for real projects
In the house next door, I salvaged dozens of thick planks: approximately 45–50 mm thick, 22–30 cm wide and around 3.50 m long. These were lovely pieces that I found in very good condition. These are the approximate dimensions of my batch, not a specification to copy for just any structure.
I used this timber for the insulation framing and the floor above the studio. I will cover the framing in a separate article: the choices and the different stages deserve a proper explanation.
That is what I like about salvaging: a material that has already served a purpose finds a new place in the renovation. And with everything still to do at the villa, being able to reuse what we have makes a difference.
From thick planks to the studio ceiling
These salvaged thick planks became ceiling boards upstairs in the studio. Here is the work in pictures.
Why go to the trouble?
For the budget, first of all. A reused piece can save you a purchase. But salvage takes time: dismantling, transport, removing nails, sorting, storage and preparation. If you leave all that out, you are kidding yourself a little about “free” timber.
For the material itself, too. I like wide boards, the grain and the marks that remain. You can want a tidy, well-finished piece of furniture without trying to remove all its history.
And for common sense. Reusing a board that suits the project extends its useful life. I am not going to give you a miraculous CO₂ saving: a batch from next door and a round trip across the country are very different situations. My starting point is simpler: before buying, look at what can still be used.
Bringing an old floor back to life
See the work on the floor in this renovation video.
Five things to check before saying “I’ll take it”
Here are the questions I suggest asking yourself. This is an initial sorting process, not a remote diagnosis.
- Where does it come from? Ask about its previous use, storage conditions and any known treatments. Timber with a known history is easier to find a suitable new use for than a batch with no information at all.
- How much is actually usable? Look at the faces, ends, former bearing points, notches and cracks. A 3.50 m length with damaged ends does not give you 3.50 m of usable timber. Crumbly wood or significant deterioration calls for a proper assessment.
- Is it suitable for your project? Check for warping and measure several pieces. A wide board might make a door, but it will not necessarily be straight enough for the joinery you have in mind. For load-bearing use, have the timber’s suitability assessed. [1]
- Are there signs of insect attack? Exit holes, tunnels and bore dust are clues to examine. Their appearance varies with the insect. On their own, they do not tell you the full condition of a piece or which treatment to choose. [2, 3]
- Do I have a use for it and somewhere to store it? My advice: have a few realistic projects in mind before filling the garage. Salvaging three good boards for a door can be more useful than keeping an entire batch you will never use.
Wood-boring insects: neither panic nor a magic coat of treatment
This is what held me back at first. Yes, an appropriate remedial treatment can tackle a wood-boring insect infestation. But the important word is “appropriate”. CTB-A+, the certification run by FCBA, stresses the need for an accurate diagnosis and proper preparation: probing the timber, removing damaged material, brushing and clearing dust. The method depends on the timber and the product, among other things. [3]
So if you are unsure, set the piece aside and have the problem identified before bringing it into your home. I am not suggesting that every old piece of wood needs treatment, or that you should apply a product at random. Follow its authorised uses, instructions and protective measures.
And treatment does not rebuild timber that has been eaten away. Stopping the infestation and checking that a piece can still do its job are two different questions. If it is going to support a floor, “it looks strong” is not enough. [1, 3]
From salvaged timber to a board ready to use
To work through a batch without getting sidetracked, I suggest this order:
- Identify and sort. Make stacks by size and intended use. Record where the timber came from and keep suspect pieces separate.
- Take your time dismantling. Preserving a groove, tongue or useful length is often worth a few extra minutes. For dismantling that affects a structure, have the dismantling and temporary support requirements established first.
- Remove nails before machining. Inspect both faces and the edges; remove screws, nails and staples. A metal detector can help find hidden fasteners. Do not feed an unfamiliar board straight into a planer.
- Store it properly. Keep it sheltered from rain and off the ground, with aligned supports and spacers to let air circulate. Before installation, have its moisture content checked for the intended use: old does not automatically mean dry.
- Prepare only as much as needed. Depending on the look you want, brush, sand or plane it. You do not need to remove every mark to make something beautiful.
Dismantling, storage and assessing suitability are all part of preparing timber for reuse: see the IBC guide. [1]
Old floorboards can become more than another floor
The floorboards I salvaged are still giving me plenty of ideas: wall panelling, tables, doors… A piece that is too short for one purpose may fit perfectly somewhere else. That is part of the pleasure of reuse: starting with the timber available and shaping the project around it.
A living-room table made from salvaged timber
Salvaged timber can become furniture too: here is my living-room table on video.
An exterior door, a new lease of life
Another project using salvaged timber: this exterior door. Here is how it was transformed.
For exterior cladding, you do need to check that the species, its durability and the design suit the exposure. A board that has spent its life indoors does not become suitable for rain simply because it is old or has been coated with a finish. [6]
For a table, I would favour timber with a known origin and treatments compatible with the intended use. The project also depends on what you know about the material.
Next time, I will take a second look
I cannot go back and redo the start of the renovation. But if sharing this experience stops you throwing out a good piece of timber too quickly, this article will have been worthwhile.
Start small: a batch with a known history, a simple project and a few carefully chosen boards. You do not have to rebuild an entire floor to get into salvaging timber.
What have you made from salvaged timber? Come and show me on social media. An old board, a door, a table… I enjoy seeing what other people manage to make.
Check the details and read further
Story, approximate dimensions and photographs: Franck Auchet, 4 October 2026. The photographs illustrate the renovation; they are not a timber condition assessment. Technical references accessed on 4 October 2026.
- Guide to Reusing Structural Timber — Association IBC, funded by CODIFAB, published 25 February 2026.
- Longhorn beetles, powderpost beetles and woodworm: characteristics and signs of infestation — FCBA / CTB-A+, no date stated.
- Dealing with wood-boring insect larvae — FCBA / CTB-A+, no date stated.
- Preventing occupational exposure to lead — INRS, prevention guidance, no date recorded.
- Ventilation and extraction of wood dust — INRS, no date recorded.
- Timber treatment for construction — FCBA / CTB-P+, no date stated.